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There are many resources on the web that go into details on these subjects; these are just a few highlights from my experience.

• Generally don't use metal "plated" or metalized plastic, beads and findings that show (they lose their color, - plated sometimes is OK for internal items like headpins and maybe jumprings depending on how you label your stuff)
• If possible, don't buy metal seamed beads. The seamless beads are much nicer. For really small beads if seamless isn't available, buy seamless look.
• Recommend 14K Gold Filled (14/20 GF, somtimes called 14K Rolled Gold) or Sterling Silver (Rio Grande has metal beads & findings, Fire Mountain is good too ... just look for seamless.)

  Gold plated is a few atoms/molecules depositied on the surface. Gold filled is a reasonable layer of real gold rolled on and bonded to a base metal. Typically it is 100X - 500X thicker layer of gold, than normal gold plating. More people can wear 14K than 12K. 14/20 means 14K gold over base metal and the ratio of gold/base metal is 1/20. Vermeil is another term you will hear. It is a heavy gold plate over sterling silver. It lasts longer than normal plated items but is not generally as durable as gold filled. For more details on the different types of gold see my business website at www.irenesjewelry.com

• For more cost effective metal beads and findings, use lead free pewter. They are a reasonable compromise.
• When stringing use a good quality nylon covered multi-strand wire in the appropriate weight. (Soft Flex or Accu-Flex)
• When knotting pearls, use the right weight silk cord. (can double or triple if needed)
• When beadweaving, I recommend nymo thread of appropriate weight.
• I really like toggle clasps. 2nd choice lobster. I've lost a necklace with hook and eye and others tend to break my nails.
• Don't buy dyed or painted beads where possible (often they fade)
• Don't buy "crackle" beads, they look pretty at first but they can shatter. Also, over time they absorb the oils in your skin and they look like normal beads.
• When buying natural stone beads look at holes -- are they even, smooth and centered?
• Limit sharp sided beads like bicones and sharp squares (OK for earrings but hurt in necklaces and bracelets unless designed carefully.)
• Until you know your suppliers, buy freshwater pearls and natural stone beads only when you can see them. It is safe to order glass beads, metal beads and metal findings from catalogs. As you get to know the suppliers then you can start ordering the natural beads too.
• When buying lampworked beads (those beautiful hand made glass beads,) make sure they are annealed. Ask. Most glass bead makers do anneal the beads. (Annealing is heating the whole bead up in a kiln to almost melting temperature and then cool it slowly. It gets rid of all the internal stresses that occurred when the bead being made. Some people who are just getting started, just cool them slowly in a crock pot of vermiculte but that doesn't really anneal them, and non-annealed beads tend to shatter unexpectedly later. A competent bead maker will not be offended by your question.) The fused pieces are by definiton annealed because they are created in a kiln. The really multi color sparkly glass you see is called dichoric and it is expensive!

• Bend the wire over the pliers, not the other way. It is much easier to control.
  For more details, see the Making Headpin Earrings Instructions
• When crimping do the "c" crimp first, then round the c into a round bead.
  For detailed crimping instructions, see the Finishing Necklace Ends with Crimps Instructions
• Put the crimp bead between two metal beads so the end can go back through an extra bead and so the neck is protected from the crimp.
• Use twisted or corrigated crimp beads so they bite into the Accuflex or Softflex better and don't come loose.
• Always begin and end necklaces with a small sturdy jump ring. Then use a larger, thinner jump ring to connect the clasp. This has three advantages over connecting the clasp directly.
  1. If jerked or pulled the thin jump ring is more likely to break than anything else and it is easily replacable compaired to restringing.
  2. You can change clasps as needed.
  3. If the necklace is a little too short you can easily extend it with jump rings.
• When designing a necklace make sure there are no sharp beads (like bicones, sharp crystals and some squares) on the back of neck.
• If you are using bugle beads or twisted bugle or twisted liquid silver or gold (where the ends are rough), put smooth round beads in between each sharp one to protect the wearer.
• When you have a focus point on a necklace in front, be sure to put heavier beads in front so it naturally hangs in the correct position.
• Consider overall weight. Most people don't like wearing a heavy necklace all day. No one likes earrings that pull or distorts the earlobes. Lighten pieces with hollow metal, plastic or small beads.
• When making elastic items, hide the knot in a large hole bead. Use clear nail polish on the knot to make it hold.
• Consider stretch necklaces and earrings for the elderly or anyone that struggles with arthritis or fine motor control. (Mom wasn't wearing any of her necklaces or bracelets until I restrung them on elastic. Now she wears them a lot.)
• When using nymo or silk, use bead tips to hide knots and convert to jump rings.
• If you have a large hold bead and want it to be centered put a small bead inside of it (a small bugle or seed bead often works here. )